Albania's Riviera: A Slow Travel Guide from Tirana to the Coast
Not too long ago, Albania remained off the radar for most travellers, overshadowed by more mainstream destinations like Montenegro or the well-trodden paths of Italy, Spain, Portugal, and Greece. Yet, for those seeking an alternative, a journey less adorned by Instagram filters and the glossy veneer of tourism, Albania beckons with its raw charm and unvarnished authenticity. Unlike its more touted neighbours, Albania offers a quieter, unpolished beauty that resonates with discerning travellers looking for unique experiences beyond the usual tourist hotspots.
Albania's allure isn't just skin deep; it's also surprisingly affordable compared to its Mediterranean counterparts. While Greece may boast pockets of affordability tucked away from the tourist trail, Albania stands out for its overall accessibility and budget-friendliness. For travellers in search of sun-drenched beaches, pristine coastlines, and mouth-watering cuisine without breaking the bank, Albania emerges as a compelling choice.
Upon touching down in Tirana, the capital city, consider lingering a few days before embarking on your Albanian Riviera road trip. Tirana offers an authentic taste of Albanian cuisine, with its vibrant food scene and easy access to fresh, flavourful dishes—a theme that persists throughout the country.
Navigating Albania
While Albania's charm lies in its unspoilt landscapes and affordability, it's worth noting that infrastructure may not match the standards found elsewhere. As such, renting a car proves the most convenient way to explore the country, affording travellers the freedom to set their own pace and soak in the scenery at leisure. While buses are an option for the intrepid traveller, having your own vehicle ensures maximum flexibility and minimises reliance on public transport. Prepare for a touch of nostalgia as rental cars may not boast the latest amenities, lending a quaint charm reminiscent of simpler times.
First Night in Tirana
Kickstart your journey with a leisurely night in Tirana, offering a convenient launchpad for your exploration of the Albanian Riviera. Embrace the authentic Albanian experience at Bujtina e Gjelit Bed and Breakfast, a charming hotel that envelops guests in local culture. Indulge in your first taste of Albanian cuisine at the onsite restaurant, setting the stage for culinary adventures to come.
Tirana to Sarandë
The scenic drive southward to Sarandë, your base for the next few days, is simply beautiful and worth photographing. Nestled amidst breathtaking scenery, Sarandë provides easy access to nearby attractions, including the picturesque Ksamil. While Ksamil may draw crowds seeking sun and sand, those yearning for tranquillity may find solace in quieter locales along the coast. Sample the bounty of the sea with delectable seafood dishes, a staple of Riviera dining.
Tips
Enter "Welcome to Vjosa" in your GPS for the best photo spots between Tirana and Sarandë.
Stop at Memaliaj, near Uji i Ftohtë Hotel (great for an overnight stay with stunning views). Discover Albanian restaurants and local honey sellers.
Beaches near Sarandë
Gjiri i Kalastrave Beach: Secluded with clear waters and cliff views.
Pasqyra Beach: Pristine sands for a peaceful day.
Plazhi I Manastirit: Serene beach near medieval ruins.
Krorez Beach: Secluded cove with natural beauty.
Ksamil Beach: Beautiful, but crowded; good for lunch with friends.
Sarandë Beach: While this may not be our absolute favourite during the day, we find it to be an ideal base and enjoy the simple pleasure of watching the sunset with an apéro.
Sarandë to Himarë
Venture further north to Himarë, your final stop before returning to Tirana. The journey offers sweeping panoramas, albeit with winding roads that may challenge even the most seasoned drivers. Pause along the route to capture the beauty of the Albanian countryside, a testament to nature's grandeur. Himarë beckons with its laid-back vibe and opportunities for coastal exploration. Opt for a leisurely boat tour, meandering along pristine islands that offer a glimpse into Albania's unspoilt beauty. While others may choose to stay in Dhermi, Himare offers equally nice accommodations at a more affordable price per night.
Beaches near Himarë
Pulëbardha Beach: By far our favourite one nestled amidst rocky cliffs and lush vegetation.
Qeparo Beach: Nestled between cliffs, Qeparo Beach offers seclusion and natural beauty.
Gjipe Beach: Accessible only by boat or a challenging hike, Gjipe Beach is a hidden paradise with rugged cliffs and turquoise waters.
Grama Bay: Accessible by boat, the easiest is to book a boat tour, group or private. These boat tours allow you to discover a little more beaches with their itinerary since many beautiful small beaches are only accessible by boats.
Gjiri Anklezit: Accessible by boat, a lesser-known gem along the Albanian coast,
Filikuri Beach: Pristine sands and crystal-clear waters accessible by boat or trail.
Gjiri Filikurit Beach: Rocky beach enclosed by steep cliff walls.
Jala Beach: Azure sea water and half-moon shaped beach. Between Gjipe Beach and Himarë Beach
Porto Palermo Medieval castle which makes the whole scenery quite unique
Boat Tours Along the Albanian Riviera
Along the Albanian Riviera, some of the loveliest beaches are tucked away in secluded coves accessible only by boat. While this may seem daunting at first, it unveils a unique opportunity for exploration. Fortunately, Albania offers a budget-friendly solution: daily group boat tours. These tours provide an affordable way to access the hidden gems of the coastline while enjoying the camaraderie of fellow travellers. Additionally, for those preferring a more intimate experience, private boat tours are available at reasonable prices, particularly suitable for small groups. This flexibility ensures that every traveller can discover the stunning beaches of the Albanian Riviera.
Tips
Visit the "Homemade Products" store in Himarë, a quaint family-run shop offering delicious organic goods, mostly sweets.
Discover Vial Rooms hotel, a family-owned establishment. While not extravagant, prices are very reasonable. Opt for a room with a balcony for stunning mountain views.
Himare back to Tirana
Albania offers an array of stunning destinations, including its vibrant capital, Tirana. While this itinerary primarily focuses on the scenic Albanian Riviera, extending your stay to include the northern region and Tirana is highly recommended. However, for a short and sweet week-long getaway to enjoy the beaches without feeling rushed, this itinerary strikes the perfect balance. As you conclude your journey, we suggest departing from Himarë early in the morning to enjoy the picturesque drive back, with opportunities to make scenic stops along the way—a quintessential Albanian experience.
Upon arrival in Tirana, check into the exquisite Ebel Boutique Hotel, centrally located and boasting elegant interiors alongside an enticing buffet breakfast—a delightful start to your final day. Spend the rest of your day relaxing at Hana Corner Cafe, a charming spot offering a laid-back atmosphere and a cosy bar section for your evening enjoyment. For dinner, indulge in authentic Albanian cuisine amidst a full of life ambiance at Oda Restaurant. While Oda has multiple locations, the Oda Garden branch exudes a particular charm, ensuring an unforgettable dining experience and providing the perfect way to wrap up an Albanian Riviera road trip.
